Passo Volaia First World War Itinerary
An itinerary to discover the traces left by the First World War in the Carnic Alps, in the border area between Italy and Austria.
Volaia Pass is one of the most evocative destinations in the Carnic Alps. In addition to the presence of a glacial lake and the splendid panorama, the route leading there also offers the chance to discover significant remains from the First World War. From Rifugio Tolazzi (1,350 metres above sea level), follow an old military road up to an altitude of 1,650 metres, then continue along a mule track (CAI trail 144), first reaching the former Finance Guard barracks and then the Lambertenghi Romanin mountain hut near the pass (1,955 metres above sea level). The site is an open-air museum and features an articulated Italian defensive system with a large trench, positions, caves and shelters arranged on several lines. After crossing the state border and reaching the lake along the path that runs beside it, you soon arrive at the Pichl hut and the small rise above it, where the monument dedicated to the Carinthian Volunteers stands. Once the circuit around the lake is complete, you can take CAI trail 144 again to return to the starting point.
Author's tip
It is recommended to combine the hike with a visit to the Permanent First World War Exhibition housed in the Museum Palace of Forni Avoltri.
Technical information
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Difficulty
ModerateHiking difficulty
T3Mountain hiking trail - may contain chain-secured and exposed sections. The path is not always visible. Sometimes you need your hands for balance. Sure-footedness and average orientation skills are required.
Physical fitness
Somewhat demanding - basic fitness is required.
Road type
Highest point
2042 m
Lowest point
1362 m
Emotion
Recommended period
Landscape
Safety information
A good level of physical fitness is recommended for the ascent. Always check the weather forecast.
Equipment
Suitable sports clothing, footwear appropriate for mountain trails, and trekking poles are recommended. It is also recommended to bring an adequate supply of water and food.
Additional notes
It is possible to use snowshoes to make the ascent in winter.
Directions
The route starts from Rifugio Tolazzi (1,350 metres above sea level), which can be reached by car after passing through Collina, a hamlet of Forni Avoltri. Behind the hut begins the old military road which, in ten minutes, leads to the junction where CAI trails 143 and 144 start. Turn left onto CAI trail 144 and climb towards Passo Volaia. Those who wish may, after the fourth hairpin bend, take the shortcut on the right marked “Scorciatoia sentiero CAI 144”, which is slightly steeper and less panoramic. After about an hour’s walk, the view opens out towards the pass and the imposing faces of Mount Coglians and Mount Capolago.
Once you reach the junction between the main path and the shortcut (1,640 metres above sea level), the ascent becomes slightly steeper, but allows you to quickly reach a small promontory (1,900 metres above sea level) where the remains of Italian military buildings stand, the first traces of the First World War at Passo Volaia. After passing the junction with the Spinotti trail, continue straight on and within 10 minutes you will reach Rifugio Lambertenghi-Romanin, dedicated to two soldiers who died here during the First World War, and Passo Volaia (1,977 metres above sea level), with its splendid turquoise lake and the imposing Italian trench line, recently brought back to light. Inside it, it is possible to discover a 32 mm gun position and a machine-gun and 42 mm cannon position. More experienced hikers may also follow a track climbing towards the western face of Mount Coglians to reach a tunnelled military position.
Once outside the trench system, continue towards the lakeshore (1,950 metres above sea level). Following the shore, in 10 minutes you reach Rifugio Pichl and the monument to the Carinthian Volunteers standing on the Frauenhügel, the rocky knoll above it. From here it is also possible to observe the peaks rising behind Mount Capolago, such as Sasso Nero, Mount Volaia and Biegen Köpfe. The itinerary concludes by completing the circuit of the lake and taking CAI trail 144 again, which in just over an hour leads back to Rifugio Tolazzi.
Roadbook
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How to get there
Take the Carnia–Tolmezzo exit from the A23 motorway and continue towards Tolmezzo along State Road SS52. Stay on this road following the signs for Villa Santina, then continue on State Road SS355 towards Ovaro. Continue straight on past Ovaro, Comeglians and Rigolato and, once you reach Forni Avoltri, turn right towards Collina. Continue along this road and after 9 kilometres you will reach Rifugio Tolazzi.
Where to park
Parking near Rifugio Tolazzi
Starting point
Tolazzi Mountain Hut
Coordinates
Recommended maps
Tabacco Map 01. Sappada, Santo Stefano, Forni Avoltri